Note/Update: The step by step photos below show a slightly different grip. I made a few changes to that original prototype (the new one is above), however the construction and materials remained the same. I tested the first one for a couple months, and decided I liked this feel better. It has worked extremely well and makes this a much more comfortable body for my personal shooting style.

I've also since added electronics in the form of shutter release to the grip, using the infared technology that the Nikon wireless transmitter functions off of. Now it's a functioning verticle release, minus shutter controls and half-press which I really don't miss (I don't use auto focus or the internal meter much at all). Perfect addition. Total cost about $25. At some point I'll try to update with shutter release information.

Nikon's D-70 Digital SLr does not yet have an available vertical grip. Several third party vendors are rumored to be working on functional (at the very least they should be battery grips) grips, however nothing is yet available. The D-70 is a great camera, and I find the high flash-sync especially handy. While a grip isn't necessary, it can make shooting verticals more convenient, but one side I never thought about was ergonomics. It's no big deal to have a small body shooting with a small 50mm lens, but attach a long lens and to me it becomes slightly uncomfortable. The other thing that I noticed is that when I mount a flash on a stroboframe, the camera sits so low to the bracket that it is somewhat harder to handle. Maybe it's because I'm used to a vertical grip. I decided to rig up my own grip out of some simple materials, and while it doesn't function in the mechanical sense, it makes shooting a lot nicer. If you want to get technical, it doesn't function mechanically, so it's more of a body extension than a vertical grip, but it serves the purpose, and looks integrated.

My original plan was to purchase a grip for a similar body, and modify it. That would have cost upwards of $65 and unless I went through a lot of hassle, wouldn't have any mechanical function either. On a wim I figured I'd give making one myself a shot and went to poke around my workbench.

Here's what I used: 3/4-inch MDF (medium density fiberboard), contact cement(wood glue would be fine), drill press and bits (a hand drill would work too), two screws, one 1/4-20x1-inch allen head screw, one 1/4-20x5/16 Tee Nut (found in the misc. bins at Lowe's— used for the tripod hole), saw, sandpaper of varying grits, bondo, Performix Plasti-Dip spray paint, 2mm foam sheet.

>> For photos of the steps below, click here.

Construction: I started by tracing the D-70's base onto a sheet of cardboard, and then cut it out as a template. I then traced the template onto the MDF and cut out two separate pieces. You could cut two at once and save some time. I wasn't sure how thick I wanted the grip, so I cut one, and then added the second. The grip ends up being 1.5-inces deep total. After cutting them out I drilled a few holes in the facing surfaces about half-way through the material. This will save some weight off the final piece. I was careful to not drill the holes in the center portion where the tripod socket and the screw to hold it to the camera will go. Both pieces were glued and clamped together using epoxy. I also put two screws in from the top to hold it stronger. After that was dry I sanded it to get it to the perfect size and shape using an orbital sander. You could hand sand it but it will take a bit longer.

After I had sanded it down, I marked the tripod socket of the camera into my template, and then marked it on my blocks. I drilled a hole 1/4-inch hole all the way through for the screw to mount it to the camera and then drilled a counter bore to recess the screw head into the base. I moved the tripod socket over slightly on the base so that it wouldn't interfere with the screw, and then pre-drilled a hole for the Tee Nut, and installed it.

Once that was complete I filled in all the voids with Bondo body-filler (obviously not the holes I drilled). When that was dry I sanded it down by hand till it was smooth.

Once it's all smooth and nice, it was time to paint it. Plasti-Dip is a rubberized plastic coating and applies like a spray paint. It has a very similar look and feel to a camera's plastic coating. I tied a string (actually a piece of speaker wire) through the hole and hung it from the cieling to get an even finish. I applied several coats of Plasti-Dip in 30 minute intervals, and then when it was done I waited the required 4 hours before any real use. The Plasti-dip gives it the texture, look, and feel of an integrated grip.

While waiting for the Plasti-Dip to dry, I had cut out a piece of a 2mm foam sheet I got in the stamping section of a craft store for 33 cents. This will get glued to the top and make a nice seal with the camera, and prevent any movement when it's screwed down. I used spray glue. Glue on the foam, insert your screw and washer, and you should be good to go.

The main downside to a real battery grip is that you have to remove it to get to the batter compartment. It's actually not very much of a hassle though. I've never run out of battery power on a shoot with that body, so if anything I just take it out and charge it when I get home. I just keep the proper allen key in my camera bag with me in case I need to undo it. With the tripod socket (Tee Nut) I can attach it to a tripod, or put my stroboframe bracket for my flash on the camera.

If you take your time, you can hardly tell it's handmade. My only concern was that it would twist on the body. The 2mm foam solves that. It's dense enough that it sits into the grooves on the camera bottom, and when tightened, makes a seal.

With this design you could easily come up with your own custom modifications as you go. I was working off nothing, and with materials I already had. The only thing I purchased out of the lot was the sheet of foam (33 cents, and enough to make five of these), the Plasti-Dip, Tee Nut, and allen bolt. Everything else I had on my work bench, and the MDF was some left over scraps I had. * Total cost for me was $7.77.

>> Built and described by Jared Souney.